Living in Pondicherry

Small-scale fishing is the traditional local industry

Puducherry (as it has been known since 2006) is a Union Territory within the republic of India. 

There are seven Union Territories, each of which is ruled directly from central government, whereas the 29 states each have their own administrative capital. 
Back in the 17th century, France established various possessions in India - mainly trading posts, the largest of which was Pondicherry, which remained under French jurisdiction after the independence of India in 1947. In the plebiscite of 1954, there was an overwhelming vote in favour of being incorporated into the Union of India. 

There is a strong French influence everywhere, with cafés, courtyards, restaurants bookshops and trendy boutiques.

I have had to discipline myself not to be too much of a tourist because the temptations are everywhere. I have still resisted the renowned "Hot Bread Bakery" which is famous for its genuine, flaky croissants.

I have, however, promised myself a Sunday lunch on my birthday on 21st, and keep scouring Trip Advisor and other listings to decide where I might celebrate in reasonable style.

The pool building from the lower verandah

For the moment, I am spending most of my time with my laptop, sitting at my table and developing the ideas that have been maturing ever since I started this project almost 3 years ago. 

But what better environment could I have? My studio is on the first floor of a restored building away from the centre of town in a fishing village. The garden is lush and flourishing and the pool is everything one could want. I have an hour per day for my exclusive use, included in my rent.


It's a dusty street that is a rat-run for motor-bikes and bicycles. The buldings are a mix of workshops, and old and new apartment buildings. 


Here and there you'll find a hole-in-the-wall shop selling a mixture of oddments like packets of crisps, toothpaste, exercise books, pencils and boxes of matches. 


Sometimes I treat myself to a little packet of Marie biscuits - they taste just like Huntley & Palmers, - and a 100g packet costs just 10p and lasts me 2 days.

The local Hindu temple

There's a traditional Hindu temple just along the road, lavishly decorated with figures of gods and animals. 

On Saturday there was a celebration of some sort, and the residents just cordoned off a section of the street and set out tables and chairs for the event. 

Traffic and pedestrians had to find another way through. By the evening everything had been cleared away and the only evidence was a neat pile of rubbish awaiting the morning refuse collection.

There is a thriving central market zoned for fish, meat, fruit, flowers, vegetables, etc.

There is a great variety of produce, but you have to know how to haggle to achieve a price that is fair to both parties. 

I have been feasting on prawns - which are really delicious.

India's fast-growing economy is evidenced by the surge in the number of locally manufactured cars and motorbikes.

I could have hired a bike for my stay, but on balance, I think I am safer relying on the auto-rickshaws.
The experience can be equally terrifying, but at least someone else is bearing the risk.

The bicycle-rickshaw is an increasingly rare sight around town. They do have the benefit of the breeze, but I have never seen one anywhere in Kerala, where all the 3-wheeled auto-rickshaws are rapidly being replaced by the TATA mini.