Friday, 4 December 2015

Luggage & Labels

Heathrow Airport - Terminal Four
I had never before really considered the way that major airports portray travel until I stopped, and looked around me, in Heathrow’s Terminal Four. Travel was once depicted as an adventure that was available to all, from the pilgrim with sandals and scrip, to the oligarch on his yacht. 
Now, like everything in our society, it is becoming increasingly gentrified.

 Over the past generation, the basic essentials of life have ceased to be available by right, and virtually every experience has acquired a price tag. The full meaning of “privatisation” has become apparent: it is not about ownership of amenities; it is about limiting accessibility. I believe that good government should include the provision of the basic infrastructure of society, and that governments should not be allowed to renounce this by hiving off any service that could be chargeable, and hence profitably delivered by private investment. The reality of Britain today is that the family silver has been sold and future generations will have to pay to use it. 

The Victorians had a different approach, and saw the benefit in creating and delivering opportunities for all. They sought to create an up-skilled and mobile population. Travel wasn’t unaffordable: most people could afford 3rd class rail travel, and those with a better income could afford 1st or 2nd class and enjoy more comfort. It was the decision to offer a basic alternative, in addition to the luxurious option, that made travel widely available. That is still the case here in India; anyone can travel anywhere for pennies, or for pounds. You can rattle along in the heat and the dust, or you can pay more and sit back in air-conditioned comfort; the important thing is that anyone can travel – anywhere.
Free drinking water on London streets
The drive to raise perceived standards in Britain has meant the abolition of the basics that should be available at no cost – or at a minimal charge. Public toilets are an obvious example. Across the country, spending a penny (1d - one old penny = 0.4167p,) now generally costs 30p, which is the equivalent of six shillings, representing a 72-fold increase in my lifetime. 

As for free drinking water; it simply doesn’t exist. It isn’t available on street corners as it often was all over my childhood London; it’s rarely available in modest cafés, and it’s generally only available in smart restaurants if you start your meal with a confrontational demand for “tap-water.” Wherever you seek to quench your thirst, you need first to pre-qualify as a “customer.”
I don’t object to the fact that eating at a transport terminal has improved, but I am angry that inexpensive basics are no longer on offer. The simple reason is that the landlord charges rents that prevent operators from offering less expensive choices. This came home to me as I sat in a restaurant at Heathrow, rejecting the idea of a £5 bottle of beer or a £7.50 sandwich and nursing my £2 mug of Yorkshire tea – the cheapest item on the menu. I didn’t want anything exotic; I just wanted somewhere to while away an hour in reasonable comfort. 
The luxuries of Harrods (- and others!)
As I gently mused and philosophised, I gazed across the terminal to the Harrods outlet and all the other shops displaying luxury goods. Everything was expensive, and this was not because the products on offer were of exceptional quality. The prices reflected the supposedly glamorous environment of the departures lounge and – in the products themselves – the dubious worth of the artificially created, added-value of the label. This is a global phenomenon. Labels are just as much a part of the new Asia, or the new Africa, or anywhere else. Shopping malls in Hong Kong or Johannesburg sparkle with the hyped bling of Swarovski.

So I travel today in the spirit that I have always loved to travel, since I cycled youth-hostelling across England aged 13, or hitch-hiked to Vienna a couple of years later. I confess that I went through a label phase in my student years, and again in my executive years, but the gift of poverty in my retirement has refocused my life on more lasting values.
And so I boarded, I flew, and I landed in a rather different world.

Sunday, 15 November 2015

I have to get back to India

Final Preparations for Departure

Earlier this year, after no more than a few weeks back in England,  I started to plan my forthcoming trip to India. 
I was welcomed as a long-lost son last December, when I returned to the clinic at MattIndia. This time, I shall start my trip there and detox for 10 days on a vegetarian diet, devoid of any caffeine, sugar or alcohol. I shall be pummelled and stretched by my sadistic duo of masseurs - but I know that I shall feel wonderful after they have done their worst.

Meenakshi Amman Temple - Madurai

Last year, I went on from the clinic to spend time sight-seeing.
My stay in Madurai was a cultural sauna - a total immersion in a city with a vibrant buzz of Hindu pilgrimage and world tourism, centred around a massive and awe-inspiring temple. 

Subsequently, my time at the Ashram was a revelation of a totally different approach to Christianity - or indeed to faith and religion in general. 
I knew that this was the perfect venue to continue to work on my book, and by Easter I was starting to watch fluctuations in the airfares, and think about my itinerary. 

Since I returning to Lincoln at the end of January, I have made a complete break from writing and have taken the opportunity to do more research and study in areas that I had not previously explored. I am nervous about writing a book for which I have no academic qualifications, but at the same time, I sincerely believe that this gives me the advantage of approaching and investigating my subject without having been immersed and indoctrinated in other people's ideas.

I realise that not all my blog-followers will be interested in my esoteric ramblings so I am going to have two locations covering my blogging on this trip. The one you are now reading will focus on the general travel and tourism, while the other can be found under the title Simply Channelling and will cover my spiritual journey in more detail. If  you are on the mailing list, or on Facebook, you'll get regular links to the latest posts.

But it's not all going to be monastic self-denial with the Benedictines at the ashram! For the final month of my 3-month sojourn I shall be the "Writer in Residence" in a studio apartment in the suburbs of Pondicherry (now renamed Puducherry.) Pondicherry was a French enclave until a plebiscite in 1954, when a majority vote decided that Pondicherry should become part of the of the Indian Union. My hunch is that the town will have a hint of the laid-back Graham Green atmosphere that I found when I made business trips to the French colony of Djibouti in North-East Africa in the 60's. The cuisine will be interesting, too.
India has never disappointed me, so I am excited about heading to Heathrow in little more than a fortnight. I'll fly Qatar airways again, because it is so very different from other carriers, with a multi-national mix that is a great way to start a long-haul journey.
A 380-800 : A  Double-decker Super-jumbo
Qatar Airways is a different kind of travel. If I am flying the Atlantic, it has to be BA, but on inter-continental travel in the other direction, I enjoy the cultural contrast of flying with Qatar, because the experience is epic, - and truly multi-national. 
To start with, from Heathrow to Doha, the plane is a 500+ seater, double-decker. The cabins are cleverly arranged so that you never appreciate the vast size since the seating is divided into relatively small areas.
Once you find your seat, the next surprise is the diversity of the cabin crew, typically including Kenyan, Egyptian, Japanese, Russian, Chinese, Italian, French and Spanish stewards and stewardesses, so I happily practice a few languages (even though they all speak English.)
The seats are wider than the Boeing 747 and there is extra leg room, and the entertainment system is well stocked with a library system that you can pause and rewind.

But I am dreaming already, as I sit in my Lincoln apartment, surrounded by utter chaos as I try to locate plug adapters, cables and chargers, while at the same time endeavouring to clear my desk, balance my bank account and check I have written, signed and stamped 3-months'-worth of children's and grandchildren's birthday cards. 

I leave on December 1st . . . - and I can't wait !